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Chicken FarmsHygiene in the chicken coop is a much-discussed topic. What, how and how often should be mucked out, freshly littered, cleaned and the chicken house disinfected? Is regular disinfection in the chicken coop sensible at all, since freedom from germs cannot be guaranteed anyway? Or is regular cleaning and attention to vermin control more sensible? Let’s take a look at a few details.
While in a professionally run fattening house a relatively large number of animals are kept in the minimum space required by law and usually leave the chicken house completely after about 40 days for the slaughterhouse, in a private chicken house the main priority is to enjoy the animals, followed by self-sufficiency with meat and eggs.
It goes without saying that these two „types of operation“ are based on different requirements for cleaning and disinfection in the chicken house and are therefore different per se.
A professionally built chicken coop usually does not use wooden components with many cracks, but instead relies on smooth, washable and easy-to-clean materials such as concrete, synthetic resin, plastics and chrome steel. This reduces the risk of vermin such as mites and feather mites. In contrast to a „hobby“ chicken coop, however, there is a higher infection pressure per se because of the many animals. In conclusion, it makes more sense to regularly disinfect large commercial chicken houses. On the other hand, more attention may have to be paid to parasite control in a small chicken house.
A very big risk for the spread of pathogens in the chicken house is the drinking system. Long lines, suitable temperature and possibly deposits in the lines due to medication or vitamins favour the formation of biofilms.
These are slimy structures that protect germs in the drinking system from superficial cleaning and disinfection. These biofilms cannot be removed simply by flushing and even resist common disinfectants such as chlorine (unless very highly concentrated).
However, suitable disinfectants such as Sanosil S015 or Super 25 are able to break down these structures and remove the coatings. Regular shock disinfection is therefore highly recommended. If a small amount of disinfectant is added to the water between the shock disinfection cycles, the rebuilding of such biofilms is effectively hindered.
Regardless of size, hygiene measures look very similar in both the private and professional sectors.
One of the most important measures is the regular complete renewal of the litter. This should be done at least once a month or between two fattening cycles.
First of all, all material such as drinkers and feeding equipment should be removed, taken apart separately and washed thoroughly. This is followed by the removal and disposal of the used litter including droppings. This is followed, if possible, by thorough washing with soapy water and/or high pressure of all washable surfaces. After cleaning, the surfaces are disinfected.
Ideally, a liquid disinfectant is used, which can be sprayed generously onto all surfaces. This ensures that the disinfectant penetrates all cracks, pores and possibly deposits of dried chicken droppings. This method may be a little more labour-intensive than aerosol or fogger applications, but it guarantees the best disinfection effect. For this purpose, we recommend a solution of the disinfectant concentrates Sanosil S015 or, for larger areas, Sanosil Super 25. After the disinfectant has dried, fresh, clean litter can then be introduced.
Cleaning agents and disinfectants help against dirt and bacteria, but unfortunately not against mites, fleas, lice, feather lice and other bloodsucking parasites. However, these are already greatly reduced by regular cleaning, as these parasites spend most of their time hiding on the floor/walls in any crevices of the chicken coop and only switch to the animals for their blood meal.
The actual control of these mites can be done by dusting the hiding places with siliceous agents such as diatomaceous earth or amorphous diatomaceous earth (wear a dust mask). For selective mite control in the chicken house, products containing pyrethrum and flaming with a gas burner have also proved effective.
It is important that these methods are only used when the coop is empty and cleaned. Under no circumstances should you try to „powder“ the chickens or treat them directly in any other way. If necessary, a little diatomaceous earth powder can be added to the dust bath/sand bath so that the animals can treat themselves properly.
In addition to mites, there are other pests that can affect the chickens. Coccidia and worms such as roundworms or lungworms. Both damage the digestive tract of the animals and lead to red faeces, emaciation, shaggy feathers and susceptibility to other diseases.
The treatment of worm infestation is best carried out over the whole flock, e.g. by worming through the drinking water. The treatment may have to be repeated. Since there may still be worm eggs on the surfaces, it is worthwhile to give the hen house a special treatment in such a case.
Coccidia are protozoa and, like worms and their eggs, are resistant to practically all common disinfectants. Only chlorine-cressol-based products such as Neopredisan are effective. Such disinfectants are effective, but very toxic and carcinogenic if used incorrectly. The manufacturer’s dosage and application recommendation must be scrupulously adhered to. In addition, these products should only be used for specific problems and not prophylactically.
A few concluding methods can decisively improve hygiene in the chicken house and contribute to the optimal quality of life of the animals:
Suitable litter for chickens: Clean, liquid-binding, and above all suitable for scratching around in. Suitable litter is e.g. wood shavings, chopped straw or hemp, (or pellets), in one area sand (for a dust bath) and as a secret tip: dried walnut tree leaves. Admittedly, these are more suitable for the hobby stable. However, the essential oils they contain are said to have a germ-reducing and odour-binding effect.
Disinfection of drinking water: A small amount of suitable disinfectant in the drinking water (e.g. Sanosil S015 or Super 25) keeps the drinking water free of germs and deposits. If you want to do without, you can also carry out regular shock disinfections of the system with subsequent flushing of the system. The drinking water can be acidified to inhibit re-germination. E.g. with apple vinegar or citric acid.
These can introduce pathogens into the chicken house. Control with traps or poison is an obvious solution. However, care must be taken not to harm the chickens.
